When Jonathan Anderson joined forces with director Luca Guadagnino, the result was nothing short of revolutionary. Anderson, known for his innovative fashion lines and leadership at Loewe, took on a new challenge: designing costumes for two major films in 2024. This collaboration not only earned him critical acclaim but also redefined contemporary costume design. In this exclusive insight, we explore Anderson’s journey, his creative partnership with Guadagnino, and the psychological depth he brought to "Challengers" and "Queer."

Discover How Contemporary Design Shapes Characters on Screen

The Genesis of a Creative Partnership

In 2017, amid the rolling hills of Italy, two visionary artists crossed paths. Director Luca Guadagnino, fresh off the success of “Call Me By Your Name,” met Jonathan Anderson, who was already making waves in the fashion world. Their initial meeting, intended as a brief introduction, stretched into an unexpected six-hour conversation. This serendipitous encounter laid the foundation for a friendship that would soon revolutionize costume design in film.Anderson’s dual role as creative director at Loewe and JW Anderson made him a natural fit for Guadagnino’s ambitious projects. By 2022, they were collaborating on “Challengers,” a film that explored the intricate dynamics of tennis players’ lives. The movie, starring Zendaya, Josh O’Connor, and Mike Faist, became a box office hit, grossing nearly $100 million and earning glowing reviews, particularly from online fan communities.

Contemporary Design Honored

Anderson’s contribution to “Challengers” was more than just stylish outfits; it was a complete overhaul of how contemporary clothing could define characters on screen. His work garnered him a nomination for the Costume Designers Guild Awards in the contemporary film category. “It’s a surreal honor,” Anderson remarked, reflecting on the significance of being recognized for modern design. He emphasized the challenge of making audiences see their own world through a fresh lens, adding depth and nuance to everyday attire.The film’s wardrobe choices—from the various shades of blue donned by Zendaya to the iconic “I Told Ya” t-shirt—became talking points among critics and fans alike. Anderson’s approach highlighted the power of clothing to convey character psychology, a theme he explored extensively throughout the production.

A Psychological Approach to Sportswear

Anderson’s design philosophy centered on the idea that sportswear could be a window into a character’s psyche. For “Challengers,” this meant delving deep into the personalities of each protagonist. Patrick, played by Josh O’Connor, embodied confidence and charisma, symbolized by his casual yet impactful wardrobe choices. Art, portrayed by Mike Faist, represented precision and conformity, reflected in his meticulously tailored outfits.One of the most poignant moments in the film involved Art’s transformation. Early scenes showcased him in tight, high-performance gear, emphasizing his controlled nature. However, as the story progressed, a pivotal scene revealed him in loose-fitting night trousers, marking a significant shift in his character’s emotional state. Anderson explained, “Clothing can reveal vulnerabilities, and this moment was crucial in portraying Art’s unraveling.”

Color as a Narrative Tool

Color played a vital role in defining Zendaya’s character, Tashi. Her wardrobe evolved from a dark, unsophisticated blue in her youth to a lighter, more refined shade as she matured. The darker blue dress, worn during a pivotal early scene, was intentionally designed to appear slightly out of place, symbolizing her transition from innocence to sophistication.As Tashi grew older, her style became more polished, marked by elegant cashmere sweaters and a powder-blue dress that signified her newfound confidence. Anderson collaborated closely with Guadagnino to ensure that each color choice aligned with the narrative arc, creating a visual representation of Tashi’s journey.

Beyond Tennis: A Fresh Perspective

Neither Anderson nor Guadagnino had a background in tennis, but this lack of familiarity proved advantageous. It allowed them to approach the sport with fresh eyes, uncovering layers of complexity often overlooked by seasoned enthusiasts. Anderson immersed himself in research, studying the minutiae of tennis culture and its impact on players.He noted the influence of branding in tennis, where athletes are often encased in uniform-like attire. Yet, in “Challengers,” Anderson chose to eschew brand partnerships, prioritizing creative freedom over commercial constraints. This decision enabled him to craft a unique wardrobe that authentically represented the characters without external influences.

Iconic Moments: The Power of Clothing

Among the film’s most memorable moments was the recurring appearance of the “I Told Ya” t-shirt. Worn by both Zendaya and O’Connor’s characters at different points in the story, this piece of clothing became a symbol of shared history and unspoken connections. Anderson drew inspiration from historical figures like JFK Jr., whose effortless charm and iconic style influenced the design.The t-shirt served as a tangible link between past and present, evoking powerful emotions and memories. Anderson elaborated, “Clothing has this amazing ability to transport us back in time, reminding us of people and experiences. It’s a psychological anchor that shapes our perception of characters.”

Embracing the Unknown

Anderson’s willingness to take on unfamiliar challenges has always been a hallmark of his career. From his early days at Juilliard to his current roles at Loewe and JW Anderson, he thrives on pushing boundaries. His collaboration with Guadagnino on “Challengers” and “Queer” was no exception, proving that stepping outside one’s comfort zone can lead to groundbreaking results.Reflecting on the experience, Anderson expressed gratitude for the opportunity to explore new creative territories. “This year has been a whirlwind, but it’s shown me the immense potential of merging fashion and film. It’s a testament to what can happen when you embrace the unknown and trust your instincts.”