In the late afternoon sunlight, a cloud of dust surrounded the oval track at Biligoni, Chad. Chadian jockeys, some riding bareback, expertly guided their sleek and muscular steeds around the track, with a large crowd cheering them on. Horse racing in this central African country has a unique charm that attracts the wealthy and elite, who leave the comforts of the big city to camp out in the bush and enjoy this prestigious event.

Winning a Race in Chad: A Prestigious Affair

Racehorse breeder and owner Amir Adoudou Artine compared winning a race in Chad to winning the Champions League. "It holds a special significance," he said, puffing on a small cigar. Less well-heeled racegoers climbed trees or sat on the roofs of 4×4 pickup trucks to get a good view of the Biligoni racecourse, which is located in a town midway between the bush and the desert in the southwest of the Barh el Gazel region.

The Evolution of Horse Racing in Chad

Horse racing in Chad evolved decades ago through its links with former colonial ruler France. However, France has faced setbacks in the turbulent Sahel recently, and Chad and other countries have ended military cooperation with Paris. This year's race location was chosen as it is the home of Idriss Ahmed Idriss, a racehorse owner who is also the head of an association promoting improvements in horse breeding in Chad and the Bank of Central African States.

Breeding Horses the Traditional Way

Ahmed Idriss said he breeds his animals "the traditional way," placing each mare and her foal with a cattle breeder who feeds them whey and cereals, mainly millet. But he expressed concern that such traditions could be in danger as younger generations are less interested. "It's a challenge to keep these traditions alive," he added.

Life Around the Racecourse

As night fell, everyone gathered around a campfire and discussed their predictions for the next day's racing over endless cups of hot tea. Sudanese tunes and French classics from the 1980s played in the background, and mutton boiled with spices, onions, and tomato puree was served from dawn until dusk. Betting plays no part in the traditional race meetings, and the race season started in late November.

A Tormented History

Ahmed Idriss described horse racing in Chad as having a "tormented history in this region," referring to its past of cattle rustling. "Good horses were needed for that," he said. His nickname "Cowboy Idriss" was given in his teens when he bought his first horse at the age of 15. He fondly recalled seeing great horse parades during national holidays and shows displaying historic horsemanship from North Africa.

The Changing Landscape

Adoudou Artine, who is about to turn 55, also reminisced that the races were "a place where you could discover modern life." Horse racing began in Chad at the end of the 1960s, initially with horses imported from France for crossbreeding with local ones. But the preference has since shifted to Sudanese breeds. Rainfall, horse flu, and successive conflicts and clashes have had a significant impact on this popular pastime.

The Challenges Facing Horse Racing

Younger people "prefer to play football, play cards, travel or buy cars," lamented another owner in his 50s. There is a sense of doom that racing enthusiasts in Chad are a dying breed. "Every time an owner dies or leaves, there is no replacement," Adoudou Artine said, sitting by the fire. Steep costs are also a hurdle, with a horse carrying a price tag of 1 million to 10 million CFA francs (US$1,601 to US$16,011). There is also the expense of food, upkeep, and staffing to consider. "There are about 40 of us in N’Djamena and there were about twice as many 15 years ago," Adoudou Artine said. "We are the last of the Mohicans."